Hi gang; wanted to share my experiences at smoothing and reducing the heavy trigger pull on my 2' M94.
My resources included the famous chicharrones 'Taurus revolver disassembly-pictorial guide', a YouTube video 'Taurus Model 94 Trigger Job Revisited'. In addition, combed thru 100 pages of the Smithing thread to find any references to M94 trigger work. Anything that looked relevant was cut and pasted into word document for easy reference. There were quite a few posts from NotSoWildBill and his quest to tame the M94 trigger.
The initial efforts were the disassembly and polishing the frame and component parts, that was very straight forward. Next, purchased and installed shims for the trigger and hammer.
Next was tangling with the mainspring
The 1st attempt was to shave off some of the outside diameter of the mainspring as featured in the YouTube video. I must have shaved too much off because it did not work for me, too many failures to fire.
The 2nd attempt involved replacing the mainspring with a stock M85 mainspring. Apparently it worked for others but this did not work for me, again too many failures to fire.
The 3rd was a charm and involved a number of steps. NotSoWildBill reported using a 11lb. M66 spring cut down to the same length as the stock M94 spring. But even with the 11lb. M66 spring, I still had too many failures to fire. Then went with a cut down M66 12lb. spring. It was better but still 1 or 2 failures to fire per cylinder. Then I referred to a post by Sekol where she said 'DH got some really tiny, thin washers and put them underneath the light spring, one at a time, until I got the reliable performance I needed'. That valuable tid-bit was the final piece of the puzzle.
I speculate the washer remedy likely would have worked with the stock M85 spring or even the original M94 spring I shaved down.
This was the first time I took a revolver completely apart and I was scared stiff to start.
Heeded good advice and prior to starting, purchased smithing screwdrivers and a hook and pick set.
But most importantly, having the TA.net resources mentioned gave me the confidence to take it on.
Once I had some confidence, it lead to me bobbing the hammer on my M85 for easier pocket carry.
There is a lot to learn here on TA.net from knowledgeable and friendly folks.
Special thanks to chicharrones, NotSoWildBill and Sekol for their contributions to my smithing project.
85 front latch 922 front latch spring 10 extractor rod 11 extractor rod spring 12 front latch pin 13 plunger spring 14 cylinder stop plunger. 20 thumb piece 21 thumb piece screw 22 frame 23 barrel 25 bolt 26 transfer bar 27 cylinder stop 28 trigger 29 hammer assembly 30 hand 31 side plate 32 yoke screw assembly 33 side plate screw 34 main. Sep 05, 2013 I decided to do a trigger job on my wife's Taurus model 85 blue steel 2' 38 special. When I pulled the cover off I noticed that the trigger spring center pin was a little bent, but at the time I wasn't sure that wasn't designed that way. The schematic in the manual was not that clear. Jan 14, 2010 I would not let anyone 'upgrade' my 1911 using the techniques shown in the 'trigger job' video. The sear and hammer were never checked before or after stoning. Game psp iso dibawah 100 mb. The wallowing out of the main spring housing pin holes, and grinding of the grip safety with a motor tool. The pounding of the trigger bar with a punch to adjust take up. Replacement springs improve trigger function for better shooting performance. This pak contains 1 each 9 pound reduced power hammer spring and 1 each 6.5 and 9 pound reduced power trigger return springs allowing adjustment for lighter and smoother trigger and hammer action. Notes: Not suitable for use with Taurus 94 or 941 revolvers.
Many, if not most, revolvers leave the factory these days with what can charitably be called a less than satisfactory trigger pull. The typical factory trigger consists of a gritty feeling pull with excessive weight. Trying to shoot a three pound sixgun with a seven pound trigger pull is not conducive to accurate shooting. Add to that a rough feeling sear engagement, and hitting the target becomes more luck than skill.
It is however, easy to understand why any gun manufacturer would want a trigger that could in no way be released by accident.
However, a rough, gritty trigger is never acceptable. The usual solution is to send the gun to a competent gunsmith, along with a good sum of cash, and in a few weeks you will have a sixgun with a trigger pull that is as smooth as silk and as crisp as that new C-note that you gave to the gunsmith.
While the money spent on such a good trigger job is well worth the cost. There are many shooters, myself included, who would rather dispense with the added cost and time delay, and just get to enjoy the new revolver. For those, there is a much simpler and cheaper solution. It's what I call a 'Poor Boy's Trigger Job', hence the title of this article.
This type of trigger work can be performed on most revolvers, with slight variations. I have done such to many Smith & Wesson, Taurus, Colt, and Ruger double actions, but due to their popularity, this article will deal with the single action Ruger, specifically the New Model Blackhawk and Vaquero.
The first operation deals with smoothing the mating surfaces of the sear and trigger. What we are trying to do here is what is called 'marrying the trigger'. It is very simple. After making sure that the gun is unloaded, look and make sure that it is unloaded again. Next, while applying upward pressure with your thumb to the cocked hammer, pull the trigger. You need to apply a good deal of pressure with that thumb. Repeat this step a few times until the trigger pull feels smooth and the gritty feel of the new trigger pull is gone. This removes the microscopic burrs from the surfaces, resulting in a smooth release. Don't over-do it. You want to smooth it, not wear it out.
Taurus Revolver Trigger Job
The next step requires that you remove either of the grip panels, and lift one leg of the trigger return spring from its post, allowing it to hang free. This effectively reduces the spring tension of the trigger, resulting in a reduced weight of pull.
I have, on occasion, also clipped a couple of coils from the hammer spring, but it is usually not necessary, and could result in misfires. Mount and blade warband spawn troops. The first two steps will most likely result in an excellent trigger pull.
I do not suggest that you try this procedure on a lower quality revolver. If the gun has good, hard internal parts, this procedure will do no harm, and results in a surprisingly good trigger pull, for absolutely no money. On a cheap gun with soft parts, you will ruin the trigger, but if you were the kind of person who bought junk guns, you probably wouldn't be reading Gunblast to begin with.
